Thursday, July 23, 2009

Oxford, England and Scotland: June/July 2009

We left home on June 26. After a pleasant flight to London, we were picked up by a very nice driver in a very nice car and whisked off to Oxford to spend our first night at the Oxford Spires Hotel. We slept pretty well, considering time differences. The next morning/afternoon we got a taxi and headed to our little house for the week on Observatory Street--just down the street from Kate and Joel Harris's house. It had a little garden and a cute back sun room (Solariums as house additions are very popular in UK.) which was great for me. It was within easy walking distance of the various Oxford Colleges, the University Parks, and the downtown area. Eden was one of the students in the program that Steve was helping to lead, and she, with other participants was staying at Wycliffe Hall, just a short walk away.

Here are some shots of "our street" and "our house."







Steve got up early each morning and had a full day of interaction with the 12 participants from all over the world. There were reading discussions, devotions, special speakers, and teaching of various kinds. Very generally, the mission of the Global Fellows Program is to allow adult Christians around their 30s in age to get to know and understand Christians from around the world as they all navigate their roles in a flattening world for God's Kingdom. (I hope that loosely does it some justice!) The afternoons were full of excursions more of a site-seeing nature which I went along on.

These included a tour of Oxford Colleges by a retired M. Phil:







A trip to C. S. Lewis's home--The Kilns--where we had actually spent several nights on my one other trip to Oxford 21 years ago when it was just a trashed out rental house newly bought by the C. S. Lewis Foundation but pre-renovation:

Now it has been beautifully renovated to reflect the time and life style of Lewis and his brother when they lived there. But everyone says it is probably actually nicer than when they lived there!


Eden sitting in the bedroom we stayed in years ago, the summer I was pregnant with the twins:).



One of the many wardrobes in the house (I think there are 13, so who knows which one is the magic one.):

Some of the program participants: from left to right--Chris from Bangalore, GuanHway from Beijing, Chris Hancock, the other teacher from Oxford, Eden, and a teacher from South Africa (sorry, I'm blanking on the name).




We visited Blenheim Palace, the home of the Churchill family. We had tickets for the outside only, but it was amazing in its size and magnificence! Of course, now it's mostly a site-seeing place, although the family still keeps apartments there, and we saw in a Real Estate Office window that you can rent an apartment in the Palace for about 2500 pounds a month. Could be fun for a while!

The back gardens at Blenheim and my imitation of a Greek goddess:


The group went into London in the middle of the week to participate in the English Prayer Breakfast. It was held in Westminster Hall where Steve and I are pictured. This is evidently where Henry the IIX played tennis with one of his consorts. Supposedly, there are still tennis balls caught up in the flying buttresses.

After the breakfast, we had a tour of parliament that was really interesting. I learned the origin of such phrases as "tow the line" and "in the bag." If you'd like to know, ask me.

We did not ride "the eye" (if that's how you spell it) which is the Ferris wheel behind Steve (below), but evidently it is much bigger than your state fair Ferris wheel and gives you a birds-eye view of London. Maybe next time :).

A dear friend, Katherine Cornes, was kind enough to meet us in London for the afternoon from Crowborough. We had a "lovely" (a word very well used there and very appropriate here) visit and walked around to various other sites such as Buckingham Palace.

We spent part of an afternoon punting. Here is Steve at the controls:


. . . and here is Eden in another manning (or should I say "womanning") the punt.


Eden and I (along with others) had an afternoon tour of the Bodleian Library, an amazing and interesting look into the world of old and rare books. Here is a view from a window and Eden in the courtyard doorway entrance to the library.


That same afternoon, Eden and I spent a pound or two to climb up into the spire balcony of University Church. From there you can see the views of Oxford spires, especially Christ College, the college whose dining room is replicated for the dining room of Hogwarts in the HP films.



View as you come out onto the balcony.









The program ended on Saturday, July 4 around noon. It was sad to see everyone dispersing to the corners of the earth, but it was a wonderful week, I think. Early that morning, Steve and I had been up walking in Port Meadow, the huge common meadow of Oxford. As we came into the meadow, the cows and horses that had been just dots far away started running to us all the way across the meadow. Very pretty but a little disconcerting. . . would they stop when they came to us or just run us down?






And now for Scotland.

On our first day we drove up to Edinburgh to spend the night. Of course, we were enthralled by all the sights of rural England and then Scotland. We drove a little ways off the main highway and into the Yorkshire Dales in honor of James Herriott and his influence on us. There were sheep, sheep everywhere and a few cows too. Steve got many many pictures of both, but I only include a few here, sprinkled throughout the post.

WELCOME TO SCOTLAND!





A veterinary surgery like we imagine James Herrott's looked like.


We spent the night at The Thistle in downtown Edinburough. In the morning, we had breakfast at Clarinda's, so named after a poem of Robert Burns'. My memory is that our family has some geneological connection to Burns. Who wants to check that out? The cafe was delightful and just as we might picture a tea shoppe in Edinborough should be.


We attended church at a Free Church called Blacneuch-Greyfriars. Apart from the accents, we could have been at a Covenanter church in North America. After the service we met an older man who was quite a historian and knew all about the Covenanters. This was the beginning of my broadening view of what the Covenanters were in Scotland. On an interesting note, he said the Thomas Jefferson had used the National Covenant as a model for writing the documents which spelled out religious freedom and separation of church and state in America. This is the church we worshipped in.


After church, we headed a few blocks away to the "real" Greyfriars Church" where many Covenanters had been imprisoned prior to execution. This is just outside the church yard--a tavern remember Greyfriars Bobby, a small dog that had an interesting story, memorialized in a Disney film many years ago.


The first of many memorials remembering the Covenanters at Greyfriars.

After seeing Greyfriars, we drove to the Grass Market where the execution of many Covenanters had taken place. It is still an open market today where we got a sandwich and browsed around, also reading the memorial set up there.
From there we headed north towards Bangkory (Aberdeenshire) with a stop along the way at Falkland Palace, where Steve had been as a 20-year-old. This is where the two Melville brothers gave a famous speech to King James saying there were two kings and two kingdoms in Scotland. They honored him as king over Scotland but only Christ could be king of the church. Here in Scotland was probably the first place that the Divine Right of Kings was protested--producing the fierce killing times in the mid 1600s and the birth of Presbyterianism.

Here is Falkland Palace, the hunting palace of the Stewart kings.

There used to be a Covenanter Tavern in Falkland, but Steve was disappointed to see that it was now gone and all that is left is a plaque.
We wanted to go walking there, so we went to the public grounds of the estate where a trail took us up a high hill (East Lohman -- I wonder if it's of "...the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lohman) with 360 degree views of the countryside around. There were sheep everywhere, even one ewe and lamb on the very top.





Bonnie lass


In contrast, a Scottish slug. We should have put our hand down for perspective, but it was BIG and its discovery was accompanied by an "eeeeewwwwwwww!"


Our friends, Kevin and Amy Offner and son David (4), were spending a two months' sabbatical staying in a friend of a friend's house in Bangkory, Scotland. Bangkory is about 20 miles west of Aberdeen, if I have it right. It's where a lot of oil companies have their headquarters because of off-shore drilling in the North Sea. This house is owned by an oil executive who lives in the Hague now, but keeps the house in Bangkory because everyone in the fmaily likes it best. However, no one lives there except on occasional weekend and vacation trips, I understand.
It's a beautiful, old 6-bedroom with numerous other wonderful rooms including a big solarium. It's the oldest house in the town and was once the manse of the parish church. But now it's completely modernized and decorated. So Kevin and Amy shared it with us for two nights.


Amy, David and I took a walk to a local tea shop through town, country, and lots of Queen Anne's Lace...(special because this was always the flower that my mom exclaimed about when we took road trips in the summer). On the way we crossed over a stream prized for its salmon fishing and saw several jumping up some rapids. My pictures of it weren't good enough to include.


At the tea shop for cream tea--
scones, jam, clotted cream, and tea, of course.

Pictures of taking pictures of taking pictures of taking pictures...

Of all the castles in the area, we chose Dunnator Castle because of its dramatic look. The set of Mel Gibson's "Hamlet" was fashioned after this castle. It sits on a huge wind-buffetted rock jutting out into the North Sea, attached to land only by a narrow land bridge.
We didn't know when we chose to go there that it also had some very interesting Covenanter history.

167 Covenanters were imprisoned in a "vault" for 9 weeks before being shipped to the New Indies. 70 of them died on that trip, another 2 died in trying to escape (falling from the cliffs) at Dunnator.

Me looking out the seaward window from the Whig's Vault. The window looks out over the sheer cliff drop to the sea hundreds of feet below.


Here are the names of those prisoners. Two of them were Gilchrists--Steve's mother's family name. So our relatives were among those in the group. Look in the very middle of the picture for their names. (Shoot! We should have named one of our kids Cuthbert!)

Ominous sky over Dunnator

Inside the castle walls, this I believe is what's left of the chapel. It was first burned to the ground with a battalion of English soldiers in it by William Wallace himself in the 1200s.


Bleeding hearts of Dunnator


Ancestor of Cuthbert and Robert Gilchrist, once prisoners at Dunnator.


Another interesting note is that one of the earls of Dunnator was a Covenanter himself, but lost his lands and castle for that reason, and it was passed on to someone loyal to the crown and the divine rights of kings.


Within the castle walls, the old hall.

Ever the lover of flowers, wherever they may be found.


From Bangkory we headed west through the southern part of the Scottish Highlands. We went right past Balmoral Castle, favorite summer home of Queen Elizabeth. This is near there and reminded us very much of some of the scenes from the movie, "The Queen."


Wild fox gloves on the moors

Our goal that night was to reach Wigtown in the southwest corner of Scotland. It was at Wigtown that the two Margarets were martyred and by whom my name is inspired. All my growing up years, my mother read us stories of the Scottish killing times and of the inspiring bravery and loyalty of the Scottish Covenanters to Christ's Crown and Covenant. Now we wanted to see their memorials.

Below is the bed and breakfast we stayed in--a huge old stone house overlooking the Wigtown Bay where the Margarets, one age 63 and one age 18, were staked out to be drowned by the incoming tide. The older Margaret was staked out further in hopes that seeing her suffering and death would cause the younger Margaret to recant, but her courage carried her to heaven soon after the elder. I realized that all my life I have identified with the younger Margaret, Margaret Wilson, but now it would be much more appropriate for me to identify myself with the older Margaret, and be inspired to be a courageous model for all the younger "Margarets" of my day.


Our bedroom in the B & B. We felt like the king and queen instead of the peasant martyrs.


A traquil herd of cattle now graze in the marshes bordering the bay.


On the way down the path to the memorial stake marking the spot of the martyrdom.

I felt I needed to look sober for the weightiness of the place.

The memorial stake that marks the spot of the martyrdom. The course of the river and bay has been changed several times over the years to accommodate industry and shipping, so it is no longer in the water but in the marshes bordering the water.







This is the grave of the Margarets just a stone's throw from the site of their deaths with complete explanation of who condemned them also.


Happily for the three of us, Wigtown is also "Scotland's Book Town" with the largest used book store in Scotland. So after ruminating over the Margarets for the appropriate amount of time, there was still time to browse the book shops and find a good many interesting fiction and nonfiction books about the Covenanters. Steve has been devouring them one-by-one,and I hope to follow.


A post on Scotland wouldn't be complete without our thistle pictures. They are beautiful plants that remind us of our heritage as Scots--a bit prickley to the touch but bringing beauty wherever we may be found.

This may be blooming heather, but I can't quite tell!


One of our last stops before high-tailing it back to Oxford to return our rental car before 6 pm (source of considerable stress), was Anwoth. As a young man, Steve had spent a night in this church yard (cemetary). It is beautiful and quaint and also the burial place of some famous Covenanter whose name is eluding me at the moment.


The cottage right across the lane from Anwoth Churchyard--a perfect little Scottish cottage, I thought.
Ferns in a stone wall.


Hills and moors along the way in their summer glory.




As soon as we arrived home, we got on the internet to see about renting a Scottish cottage for a month-6 weeks of sabbatical writing or studying some summer too. Yes, it can be done, so who knows!